The flyshop owner only used midge #20 dries on standard dry fly hooks, and many of their fish were never landed, and they fished them wet. I told him what I tend to do...tie on the caddis/pupa hooks, get the shorter shank, and bigger gape, and land more fish. I'm a fly first angler whenever I can, and that is virtually all the time fishing out of the boat. When I get out in a riffle, I often fish up and out into the riffle using a dry, but even then I often swing soft hackles. Once the fly gets soaked up, even with no wt., just a very small plastic bead head, the fly sinks some, I mend, and most fish are then caught near, or in the surface. Whether they take it for a midge pupa, or a stillborn I don't know. I've sat in a lake, and viewed those shiny cellophane shucks so I tied a few of my crinkly, gray EP fibers for the trailing shuck, then just a thread body, bump up the thorax, then a pinch of white, parachute cord center fibers that hold form better than the EP fibers. I just luv the bead, as you know, because it is so easy to pinch in material behind the bead. Hackle comes up, and over, one wrap, and it is pinched in behind the artificial bug head I will call it. Then the starling wrap finishes it off. My wife captured a midge adult, about a size # 24 with an olive body. I had some tied up in olive with a few turns of peacock for the thorax, but the black worked great, so I never went to olive, and our size was way off. #18's also worked. But I often use the same theme without the wing for BWO's, and I use an amber shuck for BWO's. Maybe the hackle creates a "cluster" appearance. I just luv swinging flies, and the swing yesterday, was minimal in the slow water, more like just a drift. Brings back my steelhead days on the West Coast.