g'afternoon guys,
Last night I was browsing through the forums and came across a link
http://www.smallstreams.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2237 to Roy Christie's
Reverse Para style fly in the "Long time reader, first time poster" thread and it inspired a little tinkering at the vice. Having gone to bed with his creations on my mind, I awoke this morning with a severe itch to experiment in the medium of feather, fiber and fur to see how badly I could butcher Roy’s technique. :) Thought I’d share what I’ve been thinking with you.
According to Roy, from the link posted above, he developed his style of flies for a tiny, technical stream; suffering from drought educed, diminishing flows and subsequently uncooperative, skiddish fish. Through hundreds of hours of fishing and experimenting, Roy discovered that when he sunk the first few inches of tippit, hesitant fish seemed more easily coaxed to hand. Working with what he had at the time; Roy applied saliva, mud, fish slime and several other sinking agents to his line, but ultimately concluded that his traditional dry fliers were ill suited to the technique he wanted to employ. (I hope I have this synopses correct. I know Roy is a member of the site, perhaps he can elaborate)
Roy created a parachute style fly, tied backwards on a shrimp hook; allowing the eye to naturally submerge, theoretically bringing with it the first few inches of tippit. I don't want to post the pictures of this fly without permission, but you can see it here.
http://www.smallstreams.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=20&t=2237
I can relate to Roy's experience. I fish a spring creek in NY where it seems every summer water levels get lower and lower. A nearby, growing community has put lots of stress on the underground aquifer feeding the stream and the problem has been compounded by several summers of below average precipitation; hindering water table regeneration. Historically, this stream has had a noteworthy E. invaria emergence; however scary low water conditions and skittish fish, have made matching a notoriously tricky hatch, much more difficult.
Soooo, I'd like to work with Roy's ideas to add to my E. invaria (Sulphur) pattern arsenal.
E. invaria, true to its name, rises from the water in
variable colors; dependent on water pH and other factors that change from stream to stream. I don’t have a photo of one of these critters from my creek, but as near as I can remember many of the duns resembled these in Jason’s photo.
To suit my taste, I diverged from Roy's pattern to fit the style of dry fly I prefer, which are goose biot bodies, crowned with “Wally Wings” and wrapped in sparse hackle.
Here is what I have initially come up with. In a creative attempt to mimic the beautiful, upturned abdomen of the mayfly, I bent the front third of the hook shank up at a slight angle. This might thwart Roy’s submerged hook eye/tippit hypothesis, however I compensated by tying the hackle on a forward diagonal, hopefully allowing the hook eye to suspend below the water’s meniscus. The angles of the photos don’t do this justice. In addition to the diagonally warped hackle, I intend to fish this fly only with fluorocarbon tipit material, which is much denser then monofilament and readily sinks. To my eye, it’s a pleasing fly, I’m not sure how it will respond in the water, but I hope to develop it further as I get feedback from the trout this May.
Recipie:
Hook – 1182 Diiachi Dry Fly #14-16
Thread- 0/8 Uni Cotton Brown
Rib- 6x monofilament
Body- light tan goose biot colored yellow with indelible pen
Thorax- downy barbs from yellow mallard flank, dubbed (finger twisted)
Wing- yellow mallard flank tied “Wally Wing” style (pealed)
Hackle- oversized Whiting Farms “genetic line” light ginger barred dry fly hackle, wrapped sparse
Tail- “Mayfly Tails” treated with water shed, (6-8)
This was my first time photographing against a black background so excuse the slightly blowout colors, I’m still trying to perfect the technique. Fly is shown in #14.
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3 When clipping the excess mallard flank, trim it so the snipped butts fall just beyond the upward bend on the hook shank. Bind down the fibers with nice flat thread wraps. This will create a pleasing taper in the thickness of the fly, imitating the natural nicely.
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8 Photos 8-10 show a three step technique for tying in biots and hackle that I have recently forced myself to get into the habit of doing. It seems to significantly increased the durability of these delicate materials at the tie in point.
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15 Photos 15-17 again demonstrate the three step tie in technique for delicate materials such as hackle and biots. Strip the fibers from the quill and attach the hackle horizontal to the hook shank with two firm wraps. Do not trim the exposed quill.
16 Fold the quill back over itself, securing it with a single firm wrap.
17 Now finish securing the hackle quill with two wraps, binding it directly to the exposed hook shank.
18 Before you start warping the hackle, complete three or four tight wraps of thread in a clockwise direction around the base of mallard flank wing and hackle.
19 Now wrap the hackle in a counter clockwise direction, opposite the thread wraps you just completed. This will add stability and rigidity to your "Wally Wings". I like to dress my flies sparse, two or three wraps is usually just right.
20 After wrapping and securing the hackle, trim excess and pull the "wally wing" and hackle barbs forward at a 45 degree angle while placing several figure eight wraps to secure it in place.
21 Strip the downy barbs from a mallard flank to twist dub the abdomen.
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28 The fly is almost complete. Its time to free our wally wings. Separate several mallard flank fibers away from the main stem as we did in step. Use a needle to unzip the barbs if necessary.
29 Use your hackle pliers to pull up on the main stem of the mallard flank while gently pulling down on the fibers you just separated. Free each side of the wing one at a time.