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3. First custom build rod

Rainshadow RX7, 9ft 5wt.



If that is your first build you did an excellent job. If you were interested in selling it how much would you want? You might want to PM me since this web site typically does not allow (at least not to my knowledge) buying and selling.

Hello Wbranch.

Thanks for the compliment and interest in the rod. This is my first custom built fishing rod and it holds sentimental value. My apologies but it's not for sale.

I was just curious as a former rod maker. I especially like the composite cork fore and aft rings. Those two wear the most. I have a bad habit of really squeezing the cork and after a few years I have flattened the cork.

If I might make a suggestion, on a rod this nice I would of used a nickel silver, or some kind of metal, winding check rather than a rubber one. After a few years the rubber dry rots and cracks and before long you have no winding check.

Maybe it is metal but it is hard to discern from the picture.

It is interesting that you only used a tipping wrap on the stripper guide. On a few of my custom rods I provided tipping wraps on the stripper and all the snakes. That is a pain in the butt and for many of my personal rods I only used a tipping wrap on the winding check, the stripper, and the ends of the male and female ferrules. If a client wanted it I charged $10 more per guide.

Very nice, ive only built a few, but I appreciate the time and patience that goes into rod building. I'm partial to some of the new fiberglass offerings and really like steffen brothers blanks. That's the beauty of building your own. Hope you get many years of memories from yours.

Mike.

Nice build indeed. I've built a couple and now you are feeding that craving I've been having to do one again.

A more interesting question to me is how much money were the parts?

I broke my first build and last year I broke a store bought cheapy on a steelhead, so it makes me a little leary putting a large chunk of money into a rod.

When I was building custom rods I had a business license. It is relatively easy to get. So I was getting all my blanks and associated rod building components for at least 40% off list and as much as 50% off list. The cost of high end blanks like Sage, Winston, Orvis is nuts! You can buy a full up lesser rod for the price of a blank.

@Wbranch, Since this was my first build I didn't want to invest too much money in it. You're correct I used a plastic winding check. I was worried about using a metal winding check, and if the blank flexed deep into the butt. Later I found a solution to this problem. I didn't like the look of the plastic winding check, so I made an epoxy ramp to cover the winding check and blend into into the handle.

I wasn't going to add any narrow trim bands, but I decided to try on the stripper guide. This was very challenging and I made more than half a dozen attempts. I was also afraid I'd nick the blank when I trimmed the thread.

The rod is by no means perfect. You can't see from the photo, but two or three guides toward the tip-top have the dreaded "football" epoxy. Applying epoxy to get an even finish gave me the most difficulty.

On my future builds I'll have the confidence and experience to use more expensive components. The rod casts and fishes like a dream. I'm pretty happy with it. I also want to get into fly tying, however my eyes are starting to go.

@Strmanglr, I tend to buy blanks and components when they're on sale. The total cost for the rod was under $150. I have several blanks, cork, and thread for future builds for family and friends.

Bish0p,



Plastic may have far more longevity than rubber does. Early on, or if a client didn't want a metal winding check I used rubber. Invariably they dry rotted, cracked, and fell off. Then I just removed the wrap adjacent to the winding check and added a new longer wrap from the end of the cork up about 1/2".

The trim bands are the devil to apply! I used to buy a box of 100 single edge razor blades. Then after tying off the primary guide wrap, or the trim band, just leave the tag end about 4" long. Hold it very tight with one hand and just place the new razor blade against it and it will cut clean at the base of the thread. On the few occasions where it doesn't cut off flush you can apply a little head cement to the end and when it dries stiff you can just lay the razor blade parallel to the wrap and slide it to the fuzzy end and cut it off.

The "football" epoxy wraps often happen because either you applied too much epoxy or you are not rotating the blank often enough so the epoxy doesn't "pool" in one place too long and dry. You can buy a rod drying motor for probably around $25. It rotates very slowly. I have one that has two speeds, one at 8 rpm to apply the epoxy and the other speed at 2 rpm to allow it to dry without pooling.

Here is a link to a really cheap Pacific Bay two speed motor. It is just $14.00 but you would have to mount it on a base figure out a chuck to mount the end of the reel seat in. I found a little plastic cup and filled it with foam rubber with a "X" cut into it with a razor blade. The I could put in large or small diameter butts, mid, and tip sections to dry or of course the whole rod. But if you want to dry the whole assembled rod you need to construct a "V" support that you can place a few feet away from the motor.

http://www.flyrodcrafters.com/rod-drying-finishing-motors/

I was able to use a machine shop to make my motor mount and support. I had the luxury of running a huge machine shop and after business hours I would use the machines. I have a Sully wrapping and drying motor and support and would be willing to sell it to you for a reasonable price and the cost of a box and postage.

That's not bad, less than $150. Just the reel seat looks to be about $20-$30. My last rod build ran me about $85. Basic materials.

Wbranch, did you just have a dba that was fishing related, would it matter? I used to have a dba but was not fishing related. I can't remember what it cost me, but it wasn't much.

How do you go about using a business license to get the discounts? I haven't worked w a bunch of retailers for that kind of stuff. Jann's Netcraft mostly.

Strmanglr,

First off what is a dba? Have never heard of it.



You need to first call the vendor and ask them what requirements they want clients to present to get a builders discount. I provided the license # I got when I registered my business with the state of Pennsylvania. Sometimes they will accept a letterhead but not always because today anybody can dupe up one on their PC.

If you want to have a real custom rod business and have a business name you should get a lawyer to do a search for the name you have chosen. Obviously you wouldn't want to have the same name as another in your home state.

I started my business about twenty years ago and at that time the lawyer didn't cost a ton of money. Less than $500. They do more stuff than just find out if your name is not being used by someone else. They put a notice in the local newspaper indicating the name and purpose of my business. I have no idea why it was required and didn't ask.

In PA there is a 6% sales tax. When you buy stuff from vendors they typically don't charge any sales tax. It is up to the builder to keep good records of all his invoices and to calculate the tax owed. In PA it is called "Use Tax". I was supposed to file quarterly with the state and Federal. It was a nuisance because I was still working full time. I made some serious money building rods but eventually put the business on pretty much permanent hiatus. My business name and license though still belong to me and I could re-start if I felt so inclined.

DBA

Doing Business As

Gotta have an acronym for everything these days...reminds me of the Army!

Jonathon