What do you fellas think about the relation between action and casting distance?
A fast rod may cast 60 feet with ease, but if most fishing casts are under twenty would it have trouble loading and consequently have poor accuracy/slow line speed?
Of course. Throwing a lighter line requires less rod stiffness. But there's tons of leeway there, hence the "al dente" comments. We aren't talking broomsticks and noodles here.
Ultimately, a rod would bend just enough to power the cast and come to a dead stop at the end of each power stroke. If there is too much rod pointing at/following the line at its greatest load on the cast, or when fighting a fish, that is wasted rod at that moment. Problem is not all casts are equal length and not all fish equal size. Ever seen someone fighting a fish with too soft tipped a rod? All the tip pointing straight at the fish is wasted. It MIGHT have been used to cast the line or lure, but sometimes not. It's just too wimpy a tip for that application. I got rid of a "M" spinning rod designed with too light a tip for my purposes bc it "folded up" on fish leaving me fighting them with about 4 feet of rod! Hated that.
I think you are right that accuracy is the main issue with using a rod grossly underlined –which is what casting a 60ft performer at 20ft can be. Maybe accuracy is what is really meant by the term “delicate” presentations, when describing many small stream (softer) rods. Delicate says to me minimal disturbance on the water. But that’s a matter of line and/or leader mass/configuration, and an open or under-powered loop. That can certainly be done with any rod action. But can it be done accurately?
From what one can read about fly-rod descriptions, accuracy with a stiff rod should be more critical, and difficult to achieve, a soft rod more “forgiving”. But that doesn’t appear to pan out for me. I seem to be nearly as accurate with both my 7-1/2ft 4wts (the stiff and the soft) –although the real test would be statistically casting at targets in the driveway. Regardless, I’m getting adequate accuracy with the more powerful rod and find the compact loops I get and the ability to fire further under overhangs than I can with my softer rods, a worthwhile exchange.
The stiff rod I use for small stream fishing (and that got me (in part) on this rampage), that butt ugly broken one described in my first post, is very stiff for the line I’m using on it –but it’s not a “fast” action. Interestingly, if you cut some inches off the tip of a rod the action actually becomes slower, while the power at the tip increases. This is counterintuitive to what many people think about action. The broken tip rod I fish is therefore slower in action than it was, but stiffer. It’s essentially under-lined, esp at the tip. But I cast it well, and with that rigidity it throws tight loops easily bc it provides little vertical tip travel and instantaneous recovery at the stop –a hyper stop –the prescription for tight loops. It isn't slow (line speed wise) close in, quite the opposite.
The new rod I’ve built is rated XF but that tip is surprisingly soft –taking the smallest diameter tip-top at 3.5mm. From the limited casting I’ve done in the driveway it loads and spits fine with a short line. It also creates narrow loops easily, and out a useful distance. That’s what I want. We’ll see how it performs in all aspects of small stream fishing.
So all "fast" actions aren't the same. It may be possible to have a taper that is light enough in the tip to allow for close work, but enough power further down to support distance too. I think this is what's called a "compound taper".
To build off what Steve Rajeff was saying in that interview (link above), line mass makes a big difference in terms of momentum for distance. Going up in line mass and slowing the rod action is a recipe for distance, he said. It is THE recipe for conventional distance casting -slow rods throw farther bc more rod is throwing (compounding the power). So short strokes are not necessary for distance; probably this is what SlakeDrake was noticing. But this does not mean an underpowered lever. You can have a lot of power distributed across the blank, like my stiff trout rod. Maybe a "slow" action with lotsa power is the answer there.
How is fly-casting different? You have to form a loop -beyond the rod -and a narrow loop is faster and carries more power. A soft rod (not necessarily a "slow action" one) can form a narrow loop (by tip casting) but not a very powerful one bc the power isn't there in the tip. Distance rod makers talk about "tip power" which makes sense to me from my shortened rod. It has a very powerful tip, but slow in action. Likely I might be more accurate with a softer tip -enter the compound taper -and the XF taper means that power is very close at hand.
Oh yes, another thing...in fishing small streams I'm not always throwing really short. When fish are spooky, keeping my distance can be a real help, wherever currents will allow. I fish as close as fish and currents will allow. It's nice to be able to stand up straight and cast. If it's 20feet or less, with tight cover, I often bow-n-arrow cast -another reason I want power up front. I've been using Joe Humphreys' b-n-a casting of loops of fly-line held in my hand, which gives surprising distance with no backcast. But you need to a lot of power up front to power it. Joe's small stream "workhorse" is a Fenwick HMG 7-1/2ft 6wt.
Bottom line is: My standard 4wts are too soft for me to get under and through cover with. Going up in line weight would help, but I want to see if I can do it staying with a light line -so I'm going for speed over mass. Two ways to add line speed: powerful tipped slower action or very fast action. Both are stiff, not soft. I'll see how that pans out in my fishing.