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2. Fly Tying Photos
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3. Hangman's Parasol

A few weeks ago I discovered the parasol style of tying (which I believe was first introduced by Fran Betters), the modern version of which employs a clinch knot to trap a tuft of poly yarn or some other good indicator material in a small section of mono. The tag end of the mono is then tied into the fly so that the fly hangs just below the water's surface. It struck me as an ingenious technique, but I didn't really want to go tying up a bunch of patterns in parasol variations. So I came up with a more versatile approach utilizing the same concept.

Instead of tying the tag end into the fly, I tied a hangman's noose in it (I actually did this first, then dealt with the poly yarn afterward). That way, it can be slipped just in front of the fly or over the fly as a separate entity and can be used with any existing fly in your box. To take it off, just pinch the knot with between your fingernails and slip it back off again. This way you can make several parasol indicators of varying lengths or with larger or smaller tufts for different types of water so that you can sink any fly in your box to any depth you want. Instead of directly attaching the indicator to the fly, you could also place it behind any one of the knots in your leader. I've demonstrated in the photos how the same indicator (in this case about 2 inches long and tied with 5x) can be used on flies of very different types, a size-22 midge pupa and a size-10 isonychia nymph. I've also demonstrated how it can be attached to various places on the same fly to affect the fly's attitude in the water.

A slip knot accomplishes the same goal as the hangman's noose and is much less bulky, but in my brief initial testing it failed much more easily than the hangman's noose when adjusted. The hangman's noose holds firm and is easy to put on and take off.

Not a big fan of synthetic flotation, I'll probably make some of these with deer hair. I've not tested the rigging at all on fish yet, but I'm excited to try it out on some tricky fish.

-Shawn

Let us know how it works out. I love creative rigging ideas like this.

Shawn,

I think you are really on to something. If you move the indicator connection a little further down the hook shank, you also solve another problem besides keeping the fly in the zone. One of the biggest unaddressed issues with dead drift nymph presentations is the attitude of the fly. Not all hatching nymphs hang vertically. I've long suspected that fish can get selective to horizontal nymphs. It's been pretty much "game over" if they do.

I'm not a big fan of the parasol nymphs that were in vogue for about two weeks on the West Coast almost a decade ago now. They went from a dozen patterns in The Fly Shop's catalog, down to a couple, and then totally disappeared in less than a year or two. The problem with them was that they were too obvious. At least that's what I suspect because the trout never explained why they didn't like them. Tippet twisters to the max as well.

Your idea is a totally different approach!:) I agree with Paul that it's more of a rigging style than a nymph design and can be applied to any nymph in the box if the situation demands. Especially for those tough baetid emergences. I like!

BTW -


Yes, and an added benefit is you will increase the odds of getting strikes on the indicator.:)

Cool Shawn, man if you made that indicator orange, the fish on the yellow breeches would eat it up! for some reason an orange wing post on a parachute tie, or an orange ball of strike idicator gets tons of takes. How about suspending a nymph from a dry via a similar connection? Did you try a uniloop?

Better put a hook in that indicator, Shawn. :)

If you are a dry fly snob you must put a hook in the indicator, and remove the hook from the nymph. :)

Good points, Eric.

Shawn -

Along the lines of Eric's comments, the following observations may have some merit.

Indicators - They have always been a bit problematic as fish (usually little, but not always) will often take 'em and bigger fish may shy away because of them. Out West many of the larger sophisticated ones on our heavily fished rivers have had their fill of bright indicators and are put on the alert even if it is many feet away from the flies. I'm sure it's the same back East. When I use any indicator method on softer waters, I've gotten away from the bright colors for this reason. In shade, I prefer olive green Spring/Summer and a tannish color in the Fall/Winter (I found mine in a fabric shop that sells macrame yarn). In bright light, I prefer neutral gray if the fish are really spooky. It goes without saying to go with the smallest one that will still hold up the fly(s). I believe the giant gaudy puffballs of yore aren't as popular anymore for these reasons. Besides, they're a pain in the ... to cast.:) For example, the midge rigging you show could use one half that size or even smaller.

Knots - There are smaller knots that are just as easy to adjust without being so obvious and are much easier to tie. In addition to the uni Eric mentioned, a double turle will slide very easily and will bury itself in the body. To loosen simply slip a needle in the loop. Not that strength is an issue, but it's a pretty strong knot as well.

Very clever, Shawn!